Saturday, May 12, 2012

On tour with Michi, 05.05.2012

Michi (you might know her from a different post about Sardinia) had been in Dubai already last year, so I didn't have to take her to all the touristy places Dubai has to offer, but with her I discovered the "outback" of the UAE.

Our first trip took us to the East coast of the UAE: to Fujairah, supposedly the "greenest" emirate, with its small island within swimming-distance "Snoopy-island".


Here we spent a couple of hours at the beach, trying to figure out what the small holes and the sand hills close by could be.



Later on the solution was revealed: we saw some crabs digging their canal-system into the ground of the beach. And they were huge!!! I mean, I have never seen such creatures "live" before, and I really didn't have a clue how the holes came into the ground...

Even though Dibba is a really nice place: after this revelation, the humidity steaming up the place and the fact there was some oil in the water (probably because there is an industrial harbour not too far away), we decided to move on, and to search for Wadi Wurayah. Wadi stands for riverbed, and in this region of the world riverbeds are hardly ever actually filled with water. Instead, you can use them for a nice offroad-drive, usually leading through some greener areas and if you are lucky, you will even find pools or a spring.


On the road again...






Unfortunately we missed out on the actual turn into the Wadi, but instead we were rewarded with a beautiful view over the area we were supposed to go and it was quite impressive to see how much water must have flown through to cut out such huge pieces of the mountains to create this valley:




Later on we headed back and found the right turn:




following the other cars on the bumpy track:



ending up at a pool where locals were already splashing in the water. Maybe I would have to narrow down the definition of locals in this case: the crowd was limited to men swimming in the water and jumping off the rocks whereas women sat quitely and fully "wrapped up" (in their abayas, the black dress) in a picnic area close by watching the younger kids.


 

In this case we didn't want to draw more attention to us than we already did, being two young ladies of bright white colour, climbing up the few rocks to take some pictures and so we refrained from jumping into the comparably cooler water...

 



Wednesday, March 28, 2012

"Renate-Wrap" or being in Saudi, 24.-26.03.2012

I have heard a lot about Saudi Arabia before actually going there. And I was curious. Very curious.

So I took the chance to travel to Saudi Arabia for business-reason, to meet my colleagues face-to-face. Maybe they would become more cooperative then...

Preparation for Saudi Arabia was already an adventure: they said I needed pass-photos. Since I knew that I would have to wear an abaya (the black dress of the muslim women in Arab countries) and probably also the black scarf on my head, I was not sure whether to have the photo for the visa taken with scarf or without. So I took both options. It turned out that any "regular" pass-photo would have done the job as well...

Some colleagues of mine were applying for their visas at the same time and when we got our papers back, the visas showed different durations and different numbers of entries. Mine was for a single-entry and 30 days only, the others were single-entry and 3 months or multiple-entry with even longer validity. When asked for the background, I was told, the visa granted depends on age, sex and marital status of the applicant. Unmarried, young ladies get the shortest possible visa - if approved at all. Apparently the Saudi government was fearing I could try to marry into the kingdom...

So far, so good!

The next challenge was getting an abaya - without spending a fortune on a piece of cloth I would only wear once in my life! So I skipped all the malls were you can get fancy (and overpriced) abayas made of silk and went to the Souk at the Creek of Dubai. Being a tall woman made it a bit difficult to find a suitable abaya, as it should also cover your ankles, but in the end I was lucky and got the dress plus the scarf for AED 120.

In Dubai none of the foreign women wears an abaya, so I would have felt misplaced if I had to go to the airport all covered up. Thus, the logical question was: when to dress up appropriately for Saudi Arabia? I was given the instruction that I should board the plane in my regular clothes, and as soon as the plane approached the destination-airport in Saudi Arabia, I would notice that all women would start looking in their bags for their abayas and then just wrapping up on their seats. I should to the same.

That was easy!

Except for the scarf-part...

I had practiced at home to fix the scarf on my head, but the cloth was silky and it would only stay on my head for a maximum of 10 seconds. Later on I figured, that most women are using some kind of "sock", that they put on their head as to make the scarf stick better to their heads. I didn't have that and after several failed attempts on the plane, I was happy knowing that Jeddah would not be as strict as Riyadh regarding the scarf. So I wrapped the scarf only casually around my head and throat to pass the passport-check and out we were!

"We" consisted of a female colleague and me. We were picked up by our (male) colleague and brought to the hotel. Later we were told that a couple of years ago, or even now in Riyadh, this would not be acceptable. Women may only be driven by their male relatives or a designated driver. Oh! Yes! Women are not supposed to drive! It is forbidden for women to drive. They neither get a license, nor a car. As such, the mobility of a woman in Saudi Arabia is really limited. This is why most families (who can afford to) live in large, more or less luxurious compounds. These compounds usually include supermarkets, restaurants, pools and other entertainment-facilities to keep women busy.

Next day in the office I met my (male) colleagues. Some of them were reluctant or even refused to shake my hand as it is quite common not to touch any woman unless you are married or related to her.

Another difference to Dubai was prayer-time. Whereas the office in Dubai has a particular room which serves as prayer-room, the colleagues in the Jeddah-office used the corridors. During prayer-time was impossible to step out of any of the rooms.

But the biggest difference I only noticed when the need for a restroom became rather urgent. I was looking for the ladies' and I could not find it! I was desperate!
Finally a colleague told me that there are only a few ladies working in the office (for a hotline on baby-milk, of course) and they would have a secluded working area which even required a special key-card. Finding one of these cards was another odyssey, but I managed in time.

Conclusio of my visit: Saudi Arabia is a very male-dominated country, with very limited freedom, rights and (job-) opportunities for women. Even though most men emphasize how "protected" and safe their women are in this country, I seriously doubt I would enjoy an extended stay. This trip once again showed me how lucky I can consider myself being born and raised in a country like Austria with freedom of speech, access to proper education and similar opportunities for men and women.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Mama auf Besuch, 10.-.18.01.2012

Mama kommt also nach Dubai - im Jänner!

Etwas zu frisch war es Mama dann doch, um am Strand in der Sonne zu brutzeln, oder ordentlich im Meer einzutauchen, aber für Ausflüge war es genau die richtige Temperatur. Nachdem Mama unser letzter - improvisierter - Besuch auf den Burj Khalifa zuwenig Rundblick verschafft hatte (das Atmosphere-Restaurant bietet nur Aussicht nach Süden/Westen), war ein Besuch des Observation-Decks obligatorisch. Leider haben wir keine Karten für den Sonnenuntergang bekommen, aber Dubai ist bei Nacht sowieso viel schöner! Hier der Blick Richtung Norden:


Zwei Tage später sind wir dann Richtung Oman aufgebrochen. Wer mich kennt, weiß, wie sehr ich den Oman mag! Wer Mama kennt, weiß, wie sehr sie insistieren kann, wenn sie unbedingt etwas machen will! Schon bei ihrem ersten Besuch in Dubai ist sie mir mit den Hatta-Pools in den Ohren gelegen. Und dass diese "soooo schön" wären. Damals kannte ich mich noch nicht einmal in Dubai richtig aus, und war froh wenn ich den direkten Weg vom Büro zum Apartment gefunden hatte ;-). Mittlerweile kenne ich mich schon richtig gut aus, und habe ja auch meine Gracey, also ein adäquates Auto für solche Offroad-Touren.

Mein Offroad-Buch hat mir dabei geholfen, die Hatta-Pools auf meinem kürzlich erstandenen Nokia-Handy zu funden, und den Wegpunkt zu markieren. Und dann konnte es auch schon losgehen! Über Stock und Stein ging es zur markierten Stelle, und als wir dann angekommen waren, sahen wir nur steinige Berge und zwischendurch ein wenig Grün dorniger Büsche.


Das konnte doch nicht alles gewesen sein?
Nun ja, wir folgeten dem "Falaj", einem der hier typischen, künstlich angelegten Wasserkanäle zur Bewässerung, und... endeten im Nirgendwo! Um Mamas Nerven zu schonen, erklimmte ich einen Hügel, um die Gegend nach den Pools abzusuchen, doch obwohl ich sie selbst von der Anhöhe aus nicht ausmachen konnte, zeigte mir doch das GPS auf meinem Handy an, dass wir schon viel zu weit nördlich waren. Also wieder zurück über Stock und Stein!

 

Juhuu, wir haben sie gefunden! Die ersten Ausläufer der "Pools". Tatsächlich finden sich in der Gegend ein paar Pools, die in Österreich bestenfalls als größere "Lacken" bezeichnet werden würden.

Hier noch ein paar Eindrücke:





 

Nach unserem kurzen Umweg zu den Hatta-Pools, fuhren wir weiter zur Grenze und landeten nach den langwierigen Grenzformalitäten schließlich im Oman, und am späteren Abend bezogen wir schließlich unser Quartier in Ruwi, im Norden Muskats.

Von dort machten wir in den nächsten Tagen einige Ausflüge. Einer führte uns aufs Meer hinaus, wo wir uns den Wind und die Gischt ins Gesicht blasen ließen.




Und schließlich tanzten auch die Delphine für uns:


Wir besuchten auch einsame Buchten:


Ein anderes Mal machten wir uns in Richtung Süden auf, und besuchten Fort Nakhal, das vor dem Hajar-Gebirge eingebettet in Palmenhainen liegt. Dadurch hat man einen wunderbaren Ausblick "ins Grüne", wenn man dann oben steht. Wenn man aus Österreich kommt, kann einem "grün" hier in den südlichen Gefilden schon ganz schön abgehen!


 

Und noch eines in die andere Richtung zu den Bergen hin:


Ein bisschen "Innenleben" - hier ein Kinderzimmer:


 und das Empfangszimmer für Gäste mit obligatorischem Samowar.


Die Fuß-Fotos von den Al Thawarah-Quellen, wo uns klitze-kleine Fische die alten Hautschüppchen abgeknabbert haben, erspare ich euch, und die Fotos vom Besuch der Grand Mosque von Muskat muss ich euch leider auf Mama verweisen. Andernfalls könnte ich euch nur Fotos der Moschee aus anderen Trips unterjubeln...

Mit Mama habe ich jedoch nicht die Route entlang des Meers zurück genommen, sondern mit ihr bin ich durch das Landesinnere "gegurkt" - vorbei an Nizwa und zahlreichen kleineren und größeren Dörfern, und habe einen Abstecher zu Jebel Misht und den Ausläufern von Wadi Damm gemacht.

Hier ein Foto von Jebel Misht, der sich vermutlich auch wunderbar zum Klettern eignet:

 

Der Eingang zu einem sicherlich sehr lohnenden Wandergebiet durch den Wadi Damm


 bei dem Wanderer bereits nach einem kurzen Stück mit einem vielversprechenden Pool belohnt werden

 

Allerdings hatten Mama und ich kein geeignetes Schuhwerk vor Ort, und daher blieb es bei einer kurzen Stipvisite und dem Vorhaben, bald wieder zu kommen, und die Gegend dann eingehender unter die Lupe zu nehmen.